Filzmoos

Filzmoos lies on a broad, sunny terrace in the Pongau, at about 1,050 metres, at the north-eastern edge of Salzburg state. To the south the Dachstein rises in a wall of limestone, and to the east the Gosaukamm ridge, with the Bischofsmütze at 2,458 metres, forms a jagged skyline. The village borders the Salzkammergut region: the Gosau valley and the lakes of Upper Austria lie just across the pass. The setting is a natural amphitheatre of mountains, meadows and forest.

The Bischofsmütze, the Bishop's Hat, is the symbol of the village, a pointed rock tower whose shape resembles a bishop's mitre. It is a classic climbing peak, though the summit is for experienced mountaineers only; walkers see it from the surrounding trails, the huts and the valley. The Gosaukamm, the long ridge of which it is part, belongs to the Dachstein massif, and its pale walls change colour with the light.

Walking is the main summer activity, and Filzmoos is promoted as a hiking village. The network of trails covers more than 150 kilometres, from gentle valley paths along streams to long routes onto alpine pastures and higher huts. The Moosalm, at about 1,330 metres, and other traditional huts serve cheese, bread and bacon, milk and sometimes homemade cakes, and the Schmiedberg area, with its alpine pastures above the village, can be reached on foot or, in season, by a lift. Mountain biking is another speciality, with signposted routes for beginners and experts, and an adventure park for children offers play facilities.

The valley's small lakes and streams add variety. A few small lakes, among them the Almsee-type ponds of the plateau, are suitable for a quiet walk, and streams run through the village. In the village centre, you will find the parish and pilgrimage church, dedicated to Saints Peter and Paul, which is a simple, well-kept church, and a handful of inns and guesthouses. A tourist information office on the main street provides maps and advice.

A particular local concept is the Energy Land, in German known as Kraftplätze, a network of marked places where the surroundings are said to give calm and strength. The sites are chosen for their views and atmosphere, such as a spring, a quiet clearing or a viewpoint, and the idea is that visitors walk to them slowly. Whether or not one believes in the energy, the sites make good short walks and the concept fits the village's quiet character, with local guides offering themed hikes.

The Filzmoos winter season is also pleasant. The ski area is small but pleasant, with runs for families and intermediates, and is linked to the Ski amadé network, which covers large parts of Salzburg state. Cross-country trails, snowshoe routes and a toboggan run, along with horse-drawn sleigh rides, are among the other winter activities.

Food is Salzburg and Pongau cooking: Kasnocken, cheese dumplings with onions, Pinzgau-style roast meats, trout and sweet dishes such as Kaiserschmarrn. Farms sell cheese and butter, and the village cafes serve strudel.

The best time to visit is from June to October for hiking and cycling, with July and August warm and September and October clear and colourful. The winter season runs from December to March. Spring is quiet and some huts are closed.

Getting there is simple by car: Filzmoos is about an hour from Salzburg, by the A10 Tauern motorway to Eben, then a mountain road. The nearest railway station is at Bischofshofen or Radstadt, with buses from there. Munich is about two and a half hours, Vienna about four. Local buses and hotel shuttles serve the village in season, and a car is helpful for exploring Gosau and the lakes.