Lech Am Arlberg

Lech lies at the head of the Lechtal valley, where the Lech River, which begins in the surrounding mountains, starts its long journey toward Germany. The village is at around 1,450 metres, and the mountains rise on every side to peaks above 2,500 metres. Because the Flexen road crosses to Zürs and the Arlberg pass, Lech has been linked to the wider region for centuries, but it also stayed isolated in winter, which preserved its character.

The village's origins lie with the Walser, German-speaking farmers from the Valais region of Switzerland, who settled in high Alpine valleys across Vorarlberg, Tyrol and neighbouring areas from the fourteenth century. They built wooden houses, farmed on steep slopes and developed a distinct dialect and customs. Traces of this heritage remain in Lech's older buildings, in local names, and in the parish church with its modest size. Today the village has become one of the best-known luxury resorts in the Alps, but regulations have kept the architecture in a traditional chalet style, with timber façades and balconies, and have prevented large-scale developments.

Winter sports dominate the year. Lech is part of the Ski Arlberg area, formed by the linking of Lech, Zürs, Stuben, St. Anton and St. Christoph, which offers hundreds of kilometres of pistes and lifts. The White Ring, a 22-kilometre circuit on skis, is the most famous route: it loops around the local mountains, passing through Lech, Zürs, Zug and Oberlech, and is graded as suitable for strong intermediates. Off-piste skiing, ski touring and heli-skiing in the surrounding terrain attract experts, though these demand experience and local guides. Snow is generally reliable because of altitude and exposure.

In summer, the atmosphere changes. Lifts carry walkers to high paths, and hiking routes include the circular Lech Valley routes, the walk to the Formarinsee lake, and climbs to the Rote Wand, a prominent rock peak. The Lechweg, a long-distance trail of about 125 kilometres, follows the river from its source in Vorarlberg through Tyrol to Füssen in Bavaria, and was certified as a Leading Quality Trail in Europe. Many walkers do only a short section. The valley's alpine meadows are rich in flowers in June and July, and an alpine garden near the village displays local plants.

Cultural life is quiet but present. Small museums and a village church with its tower provide local history, and Lech hosts classical concerts and an annual literature and arts programme. The Lech River itself is a draw, with clear water and gravel banks that make it a rare example of an unregulated Alpine river. Fly fishing is possible in season with a permit.

The village offers an unusual density of high-end hotels, restaurants and spas, so prices are among the highest in the Austrian Alps. Cuisine includes both traditional Vorarlberg dishes, such as Käsknöpfle, cheese dumplings with fried onions, and Kaiserschmarrn, and international fine dining. Mountain huts serve simple dishes, and cafes provide cakes and hot chocolate after skiing.

A golf course operates in summer, and spa facilities are available in many hotels and at a public wellness centre. For quieter days, Lech's proximity to neighbouring villages, such as Zürs, Warth and Schröcken, allows short excursions.

Winter runs from December to April, with the main season at Christmas and between January and March. Summer is from late June to September, and the villages are quiet in between, with many hotels closed. Spring is a good time for ski touring.

Getting to Lech takes some effort. There is no railway: the nearest station is at Langen am Arlberg or St. Anton, from which buses run, and the road over the Flexen pass can close in heavy snow. The drive from Innsbruck takes about two hours, and from Zürich about three hours. The state capital, Bregenz, lies in the opposite direction, around two hours away.