Hallein

Hallein is the second largest town in the Tennengau district, and it lies on the left bank of the Salzach, about 15 kilometres south of Salzburg. The Salzach was the main transport route for salt, which was floated downriver on boats and then shipped across southern Germany and beyond. The town's name relates to the Celtic and early German word for salt, and the product built both its wealth and its architecture.

The best way to understand this history is to visit the salt mine. Salzwelten Salzburg, on the Dürrnberg above the town at Bad Dürrnberg, runs guided tours through old galleries of the active mine's historic section. Visitors put on protective overalls, ride on mining trains and slide down the wooden chutes that miners used. A boat ride crosses an underground salt lake with light projections, and exhibits explain how brine was extracted and evaporated. At one point the tour crosses the border into Germany, marked underground, because the mining area extends under both countries. Tours last around an hour and are suitable for most visitors, though the tunnels are cool, so a warm layer is advisable.

The Celts are central to the story. Archaeologists found rich graves on the Dürrnberg, showing that a prosperous Celtic community mined salt here from around 600 BC. The Celtic Museum, the Keltenmuseum in Hallein, displays finds such as jewellery, tools and weapons, and a reconstructed Celtic village near the mine shows how people lived. These sites are good for families, with hands-on activities in season.

The old town is small and walkable. Narrow streets lead to squares with fountains and houses with colourful façades, and the Gothic-style parish Church dominates the centre with its tower. Hallein is also the place where Franz Xaver Gruber, the organist who composed Silent Night in 1818, lived and worked for many years, and he is buried in the town cemetery. A museum devoted to the song, the Stille-Nacht-Museum, presents the story of the carol, and in December concerts and a small Christmas market highlight the connection.

Art and culture appear in several forms. The former salt-works site on the river island, the Pernerinsel, hosts the Celtic Museum and cultural events, and a modern art gallery in a renovated medieval castle, Schloss Wiespach, shows temporary exhibitions. Check what is on at the time of your visit.

Nature is close at hand. The Barmstein, a pair of striking limestone rock formations, rises above the valley and is a popular spot for walkers and climbers. A path leads up the Dürrnberg through woodland, and the Salzach river path is flat enough for relaxed cycling. The Tennengau mountains behind the town offer further hikes, and other lakes in the Salzburg region lie within a short drive. For families, a summer toboggan run on the Dürrnberg, the Keltenblitz, is a fun addition.

Another landmark is the brewery at Kaltenhausen, the Hofbräu Kaltenhausen, a historic brewing site on the edge of town that has a visitor facility and a restaurant. Beer, salt and mining are key elements of local identity, and traditional dishes include roast pork, dumplings, trout and Salzburger Nockerl, a sweet soufflé.

The best time to visit is from May to October for the mine, the hills and outdoor events, though the mine runs year-round with fewer tours in winter. December is atmospheric with Silent Night events. Hallein is easy to reach, with regular trains from Salzburg taking about 15 minutes, and a bus up to the Dürrnberg, though many visitors drive.