Gmunden

Gmunden lies at the northern tip of Lake Traunsee, the Traunsee, a lake about 12 kilometres long and up to 191 metres deep, the deepest in Austria, in the Salzkammergut region of Upper Austria. The Traun River flows out of the lake at the town, and the Traunstein, a limestone mountain of 1,691 metres, rises steeply from the water on the opposite shore, a view that has attracted painters for two centuries. The Alps behind, including the distant Dachstein, extend the view to the south.

The history of the place is the history of salt. Salt from the mines at Hallstatt and Bad Ischl was carried by boat down the Traun and across the lake to Gmunden, which became the central salt trading and administrative town of the Salzkammergut, with the salt office, the Salzamt, based here. The name of the town is of medieval origin, and appears in medieval Latin documents in various forms; tourist sources that derive it from a supposed Latin word meaning boundary stone are unreliable, and the name more likely refers to the mouth of the river. Salt barges, the Traunsee Plätten, went down the river, and a salt transport shipping route continued for centuries.

The town's most photographed sight is Seeschloss Ort, a small castle on an islet in the lake, reached by a 120-metre wooden bridge. The present building dates from the seventeenth century, and the castle is part of the lake's iconic panorama. It was made familiar to a wide audience as the setting of the Austrian television series Schlosshotel Orth. A restaurant and a short guided tour make it a pleasant stop. Another castle, Schloss Traunsee, the Gothic castle by the shore, stands closer to the town, and the Landschloss Ort is the related inland Castle.

Ceramics are the other local identity. Gmunden has produced pottery since the Middle Ages, and the Gmundner Keramik, with its distinctive green bands on white or its flamed pattern, has been exported since the nineteenth century. The workshops offer tours, and the Ceramic Museum in the Kammerhofmuseum presents the history of the craft and of the salt trade. A ceramic carillon in the Town Hall tower plays tunes during the day, a quirky symbol of the town. The town's tram, the Gmundner Straßenbahn, running between the railway station and the lake, is the shortest tram system in Austria, and a ride is a short and charming experience.

Along the lakeshore, the promenade, parks and villas invite long walks, and the Gmunden Traunsee shore has bathing places, boat rentals and a Schifffahrt, a lake steamer service. The historic paddle steamer Gisela, built in 1871 for Emperor Franz Joseph, still sails on special trips, and boats stop at several lakeside villages. Sailing is a tradition, and the annual regatta draws sailors to the lake.

Beyond the town, there is plenty to do. In June, the high Mountains are still snowy; the Traunstein, reached by several trails, some of them steep and demanding, is a mountain for experienced walkers; a gentler walk is the Grünberg, a hill with a cable car above the town and a panorama of the lake and the Dachstein. The Traun Waterfall, the Traunfall, a few kilometres down the river at Roitham, is a short excursion. Cycling is popular along the lake and the river, and the Salzkammergut mountains offer further hikes.

Cultural events include the Salzkammergut Festival Weeks, the Salzkammergut Festwochen, held each summer with concerts and theatre, and a Ceramic Festival and a Regatta add to the calendar. The Christmas market on the Rathausplatz is also known.

Food is Salzkammergut cooking, with Traunsee char and whitefish, Kasnocken, roast pork, and pastries, with Kaiserschmarrn and Salzburger Nockerl.

The best time to visit is from May to September for swimming, sailing and walking, with August the warmest. October offers autumn colour. Winters are quiet, but the Advent market is lively.

Getting there is easy. Gmunden has railway stations on the Salzkammergut line and a branch from Vienna via Attnang-Puchheim, with direct trains from Linz and Salzburg in about an hour and a half, and Vienna in about three. By car, the A1 motorway and the road through Vöcklabruck lead to the town in about an hour from Salzburg, and Linz is about 70 kilometres away. Boats link the town with the other lake towns.