Hittisau

Hittisau lies in the Bregenzerwald, a region of Vorarlberg between Lake Constance and the Arlberg that is known for its intact village culture. The name Bregenzerwald refers to the forest valley of the Bregenzer Ach river, and the villages are spread across hillsides with farmsteads dotted among the meadows. Hittisau is in the southwestern part, near the Bavarian border, and it is one of the larger villages in the valley with a compact centre around the church.

The most distinctive thing about the village is its Frauenmuseum, opened in 2000. It is one of very few museums in Austria dedicated to women's lives, history and art, and it uses changing exhibitions to explore themes such as work, motherhood, migration and politics. The building itself is modern and the museum makes a thoughtful stop on a rainy day. Check the current exhibition and opening times before you visit.

Alpine dairy farming is the foundation of the local economy and landscape. In summer, cows are driven up to the high pastures, the Alpen, where farm families produce cheese in copper kettles. The Bregenzerwald Cheese Route, the Käsestraße, links dairies, inns and farm shops, and in Hittisau you can taste and buy Bergkäse and other regional cheeses. Meals in inns often feature Käsknöpfle, small cheese dumplings with fried onions, as well as Riebel and local sausages. The idea is simple food made from ingredients produced within a few kilometres.

Architecture is another quiet attraction. Traditional Bregenzerwald farmhouses are timber buildings with shingled façades and carefully carved details, and Hittisau has a good number of them. Alongside them, a movement of contemporary architects has built schools, community buildings and houses that use wood in a modern way, and the region has become a reference point for this approach in Europe. Walking through the village and its surroundings, you can compare the two styles.

Nature is within easy reach. The Engenlochschlucht, the gorge cut by the Bolgenach river, is a short, dramatic hike through a narrow cleft with walkways and waterfalls. Waterfalls near the border, such as the Buchenegger Wasserfälle, and the forest trails around Schwarzenberg add to the options. Hiking routes range from easy valley walks to full-day trips up the surrounding ridges, and mountain biking is popular. In winter, there are small ski lifts, cross-country tracks and snowshoe routes, but the area is much quieter than the big Arlberg resorts.

The parish church dominates the village centre, and the inns around it are a good place to meet locals. Traditional dress, called Juppe, is still worn on festive days by women in the Bregenzerwald, and village festivals, brass band concerts and church celebrations preserve a lively local culture. The dialect is distinct from the rest of Austria, and visitors may need some patience with it, though people in hotels and inns speak German and English.

The best time to visit is from late spring to early autumn. June is green and fresh, July and August are warm, and September brings the Alpabtrieb, the festive descent of cattle from the high pastures, when animals are decorated with flowers and bells in a ritual that draws crowds. October is calm, with colour on the beech woods. Winter is for skiing and snowshoeing, with snow reliable at altitude.

Reaching Hittisau takes time. From Bregenz the drive takes roughly an hour along the Bregenzerwald valley roads, and from Dornbirn about the same. Public buses connect the village to the larger valley towns, but services are limited, and most visitors come by car. The scenery on the way, with its steep meadows and wooden farmhouses, is part of the experience.