Mörbisch am See

Mörbisch, in Austria, lies at the southwestern tip of Lake Neusiedl, the Neusiedler See, close to the point where the lake's reed belt meets the Hungarian border. The village has about 2,200 inhabitants, and its centre is one long main street lined with single-storey farmhouses with gable ends facing the road, courtyards with arcades and gates that open onto small yards. In summer, many of these yards double as wine taverns, with tables under the vines. The village and its setting are part of the UNESCO World Heritage cultural landscape of Fertő/Neusiedlersee and of a Biosphere Reserve, a corner of Europe where the lake and the plain meet.

The lake dominates life. The Neusiedler See is shallow, warm and rimmed with reeds, and at Mörbisch a long wooden jetty runs out through the reeds to open water, with a bathing area at the end. The water is so shallow that children can walk far out, and sailing, windsurfing and paddling are all possible. In summer, a seasonal ferry crosses the lake between Mörbisch and Illmitz on the eastern shore, and it is a restful way to see the reed landscape, often with bicycles on board.

Music is the second theme. The Seefestspiele Mörbisch, the Mörbisch Musical Festival, takes place each July and August on the Seebühne, a huge open-air stage built into the lake. Founded in 1957 as an operetta festival, it has staged productions of operettas and later musicals, with elaborate sets, an orchestra and an audience of several thousand seated on a tiered stand facing the water. The stage can be seen at other times of year, and the performances begin at dusk, so evenings are mild. Tickets sell early, and the programme changes each year.

Wine is a quiet pleasure. The vineyards around Mörbisch, in a warm, dry Pannonian climate, produce white wines such as Welschriesling and Grüner Veltliner, red wines from Zweigelt and Blaufränkisch and rich sweet wines made possible by noble rot from the lake's autumn mists. Growers sell directly from their courtyards, and Heuriger taverns serve their own wine with simple dishes of ham, cheese, bread and spreads. A long lane of old cellars, the Kellergasse, lies at the edge of the village. Opening times vary, so check ahead.

Beyond the village, the landscape invites slow exploration. Cycling is the main activity: the lake cycle route of about 125 kilometres passes through Mörbisch, and short rides lead to Rust, a few kilometres north, with its storks, old town and wine cellars, and into Hungary, where the Fertő-side villages and a Baroque palace at Fertőd can be visited. In the other direction, the Neusiedler See-Seewinkel National Park, near Illmitz and Podersdorf, offers birdwatching on a large scale, with hundreds of species, among them spoonbills, egrets and geese. Observation towers and guided walks help. In winter the reed belt turns golden, and the lake may freeze for skating.

Food is Burgenland cooking, with a Hungarian accent: goulash, roast goose around St. Martin's Day, strudel, and fish from the lake such as zander and carp, often fried. Cafes along the main street serve cakes and ice cream.

The best time to visit is from June to September, with July and August the hottest and the festival season. May and September are milder, and September brings harvest festivals. The village is quiet in winter, when many businesses close.

Getting there is simple by car: Mörbisch is about an hour from Vienna via the A3, and the border crossing to Hungary is nearby. Buses link the village with Eisenstadt and Neusiedl am See, where trains run to Vienna, and with Budapest, about two and a half hours away by road, via the Hungarian border. Cyclists can arrive along the lake route, and the seasonal ferry provides a link with the east shore.