Neusiedl am See

Neusiedl am See, in Burgenland, lies at the northern tip of Lake Neusiedl, the Neusiedler See, where the reed belt gives way to a lakeside promenade, a harbour and a beach. Behind the town, vineyards rise onto the slopes of the Parndorf Plain and the Leithagebirge hills, and to the east the land runs flat toward the Hungarian border. The town is the largest community on the lake, with about 9,000 residents, and the seat of the district authority.

The lake shapes everything. It is about 36 kilometres long, though only a few kilometres wide at most and rarely deeper than two metres, so it warms quickly in summer and can freeze solid in winter. It has no outflow, which makes it endorheic; its water level depends on rain and evaporation, and in dry years it can shrink visibly. A belt of reeds, one of the largest in Europe, surrounds most of it, offering a home to birds. Because of this unusual landscape, the lake and its surroundings form the UNESCO-listed cultural landscape of Fertő/Neusiedlersee, a World Heritage Site shared between Austria and Hungary, and the Fertő-/Hanság National Park on the Hungarian side and the Neusiedler See-Seewinkel National Park on the Austrian side, with its steppe lakes in the Seewinkel, protect the wetlands. The UNESCO status dates to 2001.

Human history here goes back far. Celtic settlers and then the Romans, who had a major base at nearby Carnuntum, used the area, and the Habsburg rulers and the Hungarian nobility later held the land. The town's own history is that of a market and fishing community. A hilltop ruin, the Ruine Tabor, a fortified refuge built in the late Middle Ages, overlooks the town, and the ruined walls give a view toward the lake and the plain. The small old centre has a parish church, a market square and a Museum of local history.

In summer the lakeshore comes alive. The Neusiedl Strandbad, a large lido, provides swimming, lawns and facilities, and sailing, windsurfing, kitesurfing and stand-up paddleboarding are widely practised. A promenade links the harbour with the beach, and cafes and ice-cream stands line it. Other places around the lake have their own beaches; Podersdorf, on the far side, is best known for its Lighthouse and windsports, and Rust and Mörbisch on the western shore are known for wine and storks. In the water the depth is shallow, so it is suitable for children, though weather can change quickly.

Cycling is a key activity. A flat cycle route of about 125 kilometres circles the lake, and Neusiedl is a convenient starting point, with bike rental in town. The route passes through reed belts, vineyards, villages and across the border into Hungary. Birdwatching is another draw, and the Fertő-Hanság reserves just across the Hungarian border add more habitat. The reeds and shallow lagoons host hundreds of species, with spring and autumn migrations the best times, and guided walks run from the national park centres.

Wine is part of the local culture. Heuriger taverns in the town and nearby villages sell white wines such as Welschriesling and Grüner Veltliner, red wines such as Zweigelt and sweet wines produced when morning mist from the lake favours noble rot. Local dishes include fish from the lake, goulash and strudel, with Hungarian influence.

The best time to visit is from May to September. July and August are the hottest, ideal for swimming, while May and September are milder and good for cycling and birds. Winters are cold and windy, with ice on the lake.

Getting there is easy. Trains from Vienna reach Neusiedl am See in about 45 minutes, and the station is a short walk from the centre; regional trains continue toward Budapest with a change. By car, the A4 motorway from Vienna and the S4 road provide access, and the journey from Vienna takes about 40 minutes. Local buses and the cycle route link the town with the other lake villages.