Spittal an der Drau

Spittal an der Drau sits in a wide stretch of the Drautal, the Drau valley, at an elevation of about 560 metres, where the Lieser stream joins the river. It is the main town of Upper Carinthia, the Spittal an der Drau District of around 77,000 people, and it functions as a centre for shops, schools, hospitals and administration for the surrounding valleys. Mountains rise on all sides: the Goldeck to the south, the Millstätter Alps to the east and the high Tauern ridges to the north.

The name tells the story. The word 'Spittal' derives from the medieval word for hospital, from the Latin hospitale, and refers to a hospice founded in the Middle Ages at the point where the road met the river. Travellers stopping at the hospice created the settlement, and market rights followed. The town grew along the trade route between Salzburg and the Adriatic, and salt and iron passed through. Downstream, near Villach, the Gail River adds its water to the Drau.

The finest building is Schloss Porcia, a Renaissance palace built in the sixteenth century for Gabriel von Salamanca, with a splendid arcaded courtyard that is used for open-air theatre and concerts in summer, including the Spittal Summer Festival. Porcia Castle, as the palace is also called, houses the Museum of Folk Culture, a collection presenting the traditions, crafts and everyday objects of the Carinthian past, and its rooms contain historic furniture. The Gothic parish church and several old houses in the centre complete the historic core. A pleasant Stadtpark, the town park, lies near the palace, and a shopping and leisure area, the Stadtpark Center, stands beside it.

The Goldeck is the town's mountain. A cable car carries visitors from the edge of town to the Goldeck plateau, where in winter a family-friendly ski area operates and in summer hiking trails, mountain bike routes and a paragliding launch attract outdoor fans. The summit offers views over the Drau valley, the Lake Millstatt basin and the Hohe Tauern ridge. A panoramic road, the Goldeck Panoramastraße, climbs for part of the way for those who prefer to drive.

Water sports are well provided for. The Drautal Perle, a swimming and wellness complex with an indoor and outdoor Aqua Park, saunas and slides, is a favourite with families in all weather. Alpine lakes help the summer season, and the nearby Millstätter See, the second largest lake in Carinthia, is only a short drive away, and the Drau River itself is used for rafting and kayaking in some stretches. Another natural highlight is the Raggaschlucht, a gorge with waterfalls and a wooden walkway in the Mölltal, reached in about half an hour by car. The Maltatal, a dramatic valley to the north with waterfalls and a high dam, is another popular excursion.

Food is Carinthian. Kärntner Kasnudeln, Carinthian Knödel dumplings, Reindling, a yeast cake with raisins, and trout from local streams appear on traditional menus, and the cafes serve regional pastries. Summer markets and local festivals add to the choices, and a Folklore festival in the region celebrates music, dress and dance.

The best time to visit is from late June to late August for hiking and exploring the Goldeck, with warm weather and long days. May and September are quieter, with pleasant temperatures. Winter is good for skiing on the Goldeck and for visits to nearby ski areas, and a small Advent market takes place in town.

Getting there is simple. The Spittal-Millstättersee railway station has direct trains from Vienna in about four hours, from Salzburg in about two hours and from Munich in around four hours. By car, the A10 Tauern Autobahn passes the town, with an exit at Spittal-Millstätter See, and the road south leads toward Villach and the Karawanks Tunnel to Slovenia, with Italy nearby via Arnoldstein. Buses connect the town with the lakes, the Goldeck and the valleys of the Hohe Tauern.