Werfen

Werfen lies in the Pongau district, in the Salzach valley between the Tennengebirge to the north and the Hochkönig to the west, and the narrowness of the valley explains its historic importance. The Salzach is flanked by steep limestone cliffs, and the road and railway squeeze through a gap above which the castle stands. In the Middle Ages, control of this passage meant control of the route between Salzburg and the Alpine regions farther south.

Hohenwerfen Castle, known locally as the Festung Hohenwerfen, was founded in 1077 by Archbishop Gebhard of Salzburg and was fortified over the following centuries. It stands about 150 metres above the valley, on a rocky crag, and the ascent by foot or by a lift is part of the experience. The castle was repeatedly altered and later restored. Today it houses a museum, a collection of weapons and exhibitions on the history of Salzburg's archbishops, and visitors can climb the tower. A falconry display, held on many days, shows trained birds of prey in flight. Check the season and times in advance.

The castle also played a part in cinema. It appears in the 1968 film Where Eagles Dare, and film fans can follow a themed tour. Local materials also link the area to The Sound of Music, which was filmed at several places around Salzburg, so ask at the tourist office what that tour covers. The film connection brings some visitors, but the real draw is scenery.

The other great attraction is the Eisriesenwelt, a cave system in the Tennengebirge mountains above Werfen. It is often described as the largest ice cave in the world, with a total length of more than 40 kilometres, though only the first kilometre or so is covered with ice and open to visitors. The cave was first explored in detail in the early twentieth century by Alexander von Mörk and others. To reach it, visitors take a shuttle bus to the car park, walk uphill for about 15 minutes and then take a cable car, followed by a guided walk through the cave. Inside, wooden stairs lead past frozen waterfalls, ice towers and glittering walls. The temperature is around freezing even in summer, so warm clothing is essential. The cave is open from spring to autumn and closed in winter, and tours can fill in July and August.

Werfen itself is a small town with a main street, a parish church dedicated to St. John the Baptist and a few inns and shops. The town centre offers a calm stop, and the cafes serve local cakes and coffee. Cyclists will find that the Tauern Cycling Path, which runs from Krimml to Passau along the Salzach and Inn rivers, passes directly through the town, and the Alpe-Adria Cycling Path links with it.

Outdoor recreation includes hiking on the Tennengebirge, where trails lead from the valley to alpine meadows and plateaus, and rafting or canoeing on the Salzach in summer. The Salzburg lake district lies within a short drive, and the thermal spa town of Bad Gastein is not far to the south.

Local food is Salzburg and Pongau cooking, including Kasnocken, cheese dumplings, roast pork, trout, and sweet dishes such as Salzburger Nockerl. Farm shops sell cheese and smoked meats.

The main season runs from May to October, when both the castle and the cave are open. September is calm and clear, while winter is quiet, with the cave closed but the castle partly open. Werfen is about 40 minutes from Salzburg by car or a bit over an hour by train, with regular regional services stopping at the station.