Lockenhaus

Lockenhaus is in the Mittelburgenland, in a region of low wooded hills at the foot of the Günser Mountains, a few kilometres from the Hungarian border. The village is small, with a main road, a village square and a scattering of farmhouses and inns. Its fame comes from two things: the castle and the music.

Burg Lockenhaus, known in Hungarian as Léka, was founded in the thirteenth century and is among the best preserved medieval fortresses in Burgenland. It stands on a rocky spur above the village, and its thick walls, towers, courtyards and cellars give a strong impression of a working fortress. Over the centuries it was owned by Hungarian noble families, and it was expanded and altered in the Renaissance and later periods. Local legend links the castle to the Knights Templar, although historians doubt the connection, and various stories about its owners add colour to the guided tours. The rooms include a knights' hall, a chapel, and the cellars and a cellar used for events. Hours are seasonal, so check ahead.

The castle courtyard and halls are also the venue for the Lockenhaus Chamber Music Festival, which began in 1981 under the artistic direction of the violinist Gidon Kremer. The festival brings together international musicians in July for a programme of concerts, often built around themes and rehearsed in public. Its informal atmosphere, with performers living in the village for the duration, attracted a faithful audience and helped Lockenhaus acquire a reputation among chamber music fans across Europe. Tickets go quickly, so book early if you plan to attend.

The village square, the Dorfplatz, is the centre of local life, with a church, a few inns and a small market. The Austrian-Hungarian border history is visible in place names and customs, and Burgenland, which became Austrian only in 1921, still has communities that speak Hungarian and Croatian. Restaurants serve regional dishes such as goulash, roast pork, goose in November and strudel, with wines from the Burgenland vineyards.

Nature is a strong point. The area is part of the Geschriebenstein Nature Park, which straddles the Austrian and Hungarian border and takes its name from the Geschriebenstein, the highest peak in Burgenland at about 880 metres. Forest trails, marked cycling routes and viewpoints are accessible from the village. Wine cellars and vineyards in the area allow tastings. Further south, the Pinka River valley has more rural scenery and small thermal resorts.

A short drive from Lockenhaus is Raiding, the village where the composer and pianist Franz Liszt was born in 1811. A museum and a modern concert hall there present his life and host concerts. Combine the two for a day of music and history. The Hungarian town of Kőszeg, a well-preserved medieval town, lies just across the border.

The best period for a visit is from late spring to early autumn, especially July if you want to attend the festival. Autumn brings colour in the hills and wine harvest events. Winters are quiet, and the castle may be closed to visitors.

A car is the best way to reach Lockenhaus, with the drive from Vienna taking about an hour and a half and from Graz about an hour and a half. Public transport is limited, with buses serving the village from Oberpullendorf and Mattersburg.